Menswear on the Lakme Vogue Week makes a robust assertion

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Menswear on the Lakme Vogue Week makes a robust assertion
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Menswear embraced maximalism with a formidable show of construction, shapes and embellishment on the Lakmé Vogue Week x FDCI

Menswear embraced maximalism with a formidable show of construction, shapes and embellishment on the Lakmé Vogue Week x FDCI

Jio World Centre, the large conference area which hosted the lately concluded six-day Lakmé Vogue Week, scores excessive on infrastructure and site, though I discovered it a tad sterile and conference-like for an occasion pushed by creativity and style. The primary main style week in Mumbai after the pandemic, nevertheless, spells a serious shift from the earlier style weeks on account of socio-cultural speaking factors reminiscent of gender-fluid silhouettes, plus-sized fashions and various pores and skin tones, which weren’t decreased to mere tokenism. Becoming a member of the sustainability membership this 12 months had been labels like Pieux, Swatti Kapoor and Studio Medium. By way of menswear too, the season was a really sturdy one.

Excessive on manufacturing

Amit Aggarwal, Gaurav Gupta, Satya Paul and Rajesh Pratap Singh had been edgy by way of set design, music and choreography. As for the collections, established designers like Gaurav Gupta, Shantnu & Nikhil, SVA by Sonam & Paras Modi, Payal Singhal and Anushre displayed consistency by way of tailoring and cuts. A number of rising menswear designers like Delhi-based Son of a Noble (SNOB), Khanijo and Noida-based Countrymade, hit it out of the park with their distinctive tackle kurtas blended with athleisure.

A mannequin showcasing designer Shyamal Bhumika’s design
| Photograph Credit score: Lakme Vogue Week/ Particular Association

We witnessed a formidable show of construction, shapes and gildings as effectively. Movie star stylist Akshay Tyagi says, “This season, Indian menswear has made a robust assertion. It goes past the usual shirt, pant, shorts look. Longer silhouettes, cropped, fitted, outsized… actually every part has been represented.”

Veteran designer Rajesh Pratap Singh introduced the curtains down on the season along with his finale, which was an ode to the French opera Lakmé. His extremely constructed assortment of his signature pleats, chrome steel components paired with khadi and extra.

Goodbye, minimalism

“Probably the most standout development and motion in Indian menswear, for me, is that of extra is extra. It’s all about maximalism. It’s extra masculine but additionally extra female and extra fluid. It isn’t shy. The boys’s style repertoire is lastly rising in a really assured manner,” says Akshay.

Vijay Varma in a Nirmooha outfit

Vijay Varma in a Nirmooha outfit
| Photograph Credit score: Lakme Vogue Week/ Particular Association

Whereas with reference to maximalism, Shantnu & Nikhil’s Capella assortment is a determined shift from the sartorial, sober-hued minimalism that we admired within the earlier seasons. Nikhil Mehra tells me, “We did go extra maximalist than within the earlier season. As an example, this season, we introduced our cross-over drape, which could be worn individually for an understated night or layered with a sherwani for a extra ceremonial look. This season, it’s all about layering the items proper.”

Rising menswear label Countrymade dabbled in tailor-made textured denim and camouflage on overcoats, a group that was extensively appreciated by the business. 

Kurta on fleek

A model in an Anushree Reddy ensemble

A mannequin in an Anushree Reddy ensemble
| Photograph Credit score: Lakme Vogue Week/ Particular Association

Insider’s perspective

“Outfits are getting stronger by way of color, print or shine, like we noticed for Gaurav Gupta. Nirmooha dabbled in enjoyable, sweet colors whereas Saaksha & Kinni did flashy prints. My solely reservation is that every part is being overdone due to social media. No matter new developments you see, are already all on the market. This might result in style fatigue, for my part. Within the current previous, as a result of pandemic, folks had been pressured to showcase on digital platforms, of their non-public studios or have non-fashion week displays in smaller codecs. Normalcy has now resumed.”

Isha Bhansali, superstar menswear stylist behind Ayushmann Khurana and different actors.

Seen in a number of iterations — basic ethnic, worn overs neakers or in a coord set format — the kurta is clearly in focus. Hyderabad-based Anushree Reddy, whose menswear we had not seen earlier than at Lakmé Vogue Week, made fairly an announcement with daring floral kurtas, layered elegantly with sherwanis.

Payal Singhal, recognized for her prints and up to date tackle kurtas, didn’t disappoint. This time, her assortment, impressed by Mughal miniature work in addition to summary artwork, noticed kurtas, coord units and jackets in quite a lot of pop color motifs. “I see Indian menswear turning into extra avant-garde with extra construction, exaggerated silhouettes, bigger prints, prints with embroidery. The everyday zardozi sherwani is now not the norm.” Singhal’s assortment noticed denim kurtas with bomber jackets, with shorter sleeves, and even jogger pants, taking part in with proportions and luxury.

Key silhouette: the coord set

Seen most frequently on the ramp within the type of matching kurta-pyjama units, designers have certainly jumped on this bandwagon. SNOB, by designer Mani Shanker Singh, showcased a collection of gorgeously tailor-made, easy-to-wear printed coord units, and so did Countrymade. SVA Couture by Mumbai-based husband-wife duo Sonam and Paras Modi eschewed a traditional method to Indian menswear.

“Indian males are loving prints, as of late, as they’ll layer it and take it from informal to formal fairly effortlessly. Coord units for males have to be relaxed and never outsized. Going by the prevailing developments, they are often layered with a wise trench coat or perhaps a shacket,” says Sonam Modi of SVA Couture.

Equally, veteran designers Abraham & Thakore selected to deconstruct the standard swimsuit into coord units that includes outsized shirts, jackets and tailor-made pants, interpreted of their signature black and white type.

Athleisure once more

Whereas athleisure has been a serious style staple in current occasions, this season we noticed it making an look in Indian silhouettes. Shantnu & Nikhil did embellished sweatshirts with sherwanis, Payal Singhal did embroidered bomber jackets, even Gaurav Gupta’s extremely sculpted silhouettes noticed a number of athleisure influences. Kurtas worn with sneakers, as we noticed at SNOB, are the brand new norm.



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